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‘Shiro’ Japanese Plum


Medium to large, round bright yellow fruit has a mild sweet flavour. Excellent for fresh eating, cooking, canning, preserves and desserts! Bareroot or Potted.

Reserve yours now with a 50% deposit or purchase in FULL for pickup this spring!

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Shiro plum, known for its medium to large, round bright yellow fruit has a mild sweet flavour. Excellent for fresh eating, cooking, canning, preserves and desserts, it is a consistent bearer of fruit. It is one of the earliest ripening plums. Very hardy. Requires pollination from other Japanese plums (Prunus salicina) varieties. Ripens in early August.

Grown on own roots.

3/4″calliper bareroot or #5 potted


Plant Details

Latin: Prunus salicina  Shiro

Hardiness Zone: 5 – 8

Height: 10′ – 20′

Spread: 5′ – 10′

Bloom Time: Spring

Ripens: August

Flower Colour: White

Fruit Colour: Yellow

Foliage Colour: Green

Light Requirements: Full Sun

Soil Requirements: Fertile, well-draining soil. Avoid competition with grass near the base of the tree.


  • Edible Fruit
  • Showy Flowers

Special Considerations: Prune when young to create an open branching structure that allows for even light distribution and more consistent ripening of fruit. Must cross-pollinate with another Japanese plum (Prunus salicina).

Stone Fruit Pruning Guide

It is recommended that most stone fruits, apricots, nectarines, peaches and plums, in particular, should be pruned into an Open Center habit also known as a Vase Shape. This, however, is up to the grower as they can be successfully grown with a central leader habit or espalier.

An open-center structure keeps the tree’s canopy open to light, which is necessary for the development of quality fruit. This shape is beneficial in supporting the heavy fruit crops of certain stone-fruit trees since they generally have a natural outward growing habit. The majority of pruning occurs in the winter or early spring while the tree is still dormant.

New Plantings

Young peach trees tend to be dormant, 3 to 6 foot whips with a profusion of side branches coming from the main stem. As soon as the tree is planted cut the main stem back to a height of 30 to 36 inches above ground level. All of the thin, weak side branches should be removed, but if there are three or four strong side branches that are well spaced around the trunk, retain them to form a framework. Side branches should have wide-angled crotches with the trunk and they should be spaced about 6 to 8 inches apart up and down the trunk. After about three years, the scaffold branches will be well established. During this establishing period, any damaged/diseased, water-sprouts, or branches facing into the center of the tree should be removed.

Established Pruning

  • Prune one-third of new growth from the previous growing season.
  • Prune to completely remove dead, damaged, and diseased limbs.
  • Prune to completely remove limbs that are growing inward toward the center of the tree.
  • Prune to completely remove tree suckers and water-sprouts whenever they appear – not just when the tree is dormant.


Bareroot Tree Planting Guide

By definition, bare-root trees are not grown in a pot and will not have any soil around their roots – hence the name “bare root”. Our bare-root trees are dormant, which helps them to transplant well and experience less transpiration (water loss) immediately after planting. The best thing you can do for a new tree is to avoid shock as much as possible, so don’t wait until it’s too late in the season to plant. The best time to plant a bare-root tree, or any other bare-root plant, is in the fall or early spring.

Steps to planting a bare-root tree;

  • Allow your tree’s roots to soak in water an hour or two before planting. Do not soak the roots for more than 24 hours.
  • A planting hole that is large enough to accommodate your tree’s current root system with some extra room to grow.
    • The multi-year hole approach is predicated on 1 foot per year extension of the tree roots beyond the planting hole (2’ x 3’).
    • It probably makes little sense to dig any hole deeper than 3’. Most deciduous fruit trees (standard or dwarf) have a high percentage of their effective feeding roots in the top 1–2’ of the soil. While they have “anchor” roots that go deeper, these roots are adept at “double digging” for themselves.
  • Spread out the dormant tree’s roots to encourage outward growth.
  • Keep the tree vertical in the planting hole (perpendicular to the ground) so that it grows straight.
    • Use stakes or metal posts to encourage straight growth, especially with dwarfing rootstocks and windy sites.
  • Keep the graft union (noticeable “bump” in the lower trunk) 2-3 inches above the ground.  
  • Refill the hole with native soil (what was removed at digging time), and any other soil amendments.
  • Gently tamp out any air pockets from the soil once the planting hole is filled.
  • Thoroughly water your newly planted tree.

Spring Plant Reservations


All Spring Plant Reservations have a 50% minimum deposit required to place orders. An order can also be paid in full.

Orders will be placed based on payment of a deposit or full payment. Payments cannot be refunded after April 5th, 2019

Payment can be made by cash, cheque, email money transfer or credit card. Please follow instructions on your invoice.


We strongly recommend ordering before April 5th, 2019 to secure your order. Please note that orders after this date are dependent on available inventory. Some stock may have limited available quantities.

Any bulk orders of 50+ plants will be subject to bulk order pricing. Please contact us for bulk orders.


SPR orders must be picked up May 17-19 from the farm in Krestova. We will send an email confirming the available times for pickup closer to this date. We are unable to deliver to Nelson or Castlegar Garden Festivals due to recent SPR order quantities.


This item is for pick-up only and does not qualify for shipping via Canada Post.


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